When the clutch pedal height is correct, you are measuring the 'free travel' by depressing the clutch pedal until you feel resistance - you are actually feeling the same resistance as you would if you were under the car, pressing in the yoke - what the FSM calls the release arm - at the end of the clutch cable - that's the 'resistance' that you are feeling when you are doing this at the pedal. The clutch pedal 'free travel' adjustment is something else. The clutch pedal height is stagnant - it's adjusted so that it's 5mm above the height of the brake pedal. I'm going to have to throw a spanner into this one, at least insofar as my comprehension of it. So this is why I think I'm not setting it correctly. As for the pedal there is still about 1.5" plus travel before the pedal gets "stiff" I see no bind points on the cable on the outside, and it's attached everywhere the old cable was attached. I looked at the release arm and adjusted (the cable) so there is less than 2mm of travel The opposite of that is if I push the clutch pedal down to shift there is a lot of travel before I really have control. So much so that it's difficult to not cause a little chatter if you aren't paying attention. The engagement point is VERY close to the bottom of the travel when releasing the pedal. When I depress the clutch it feels fine until the last couple of inches then the amount of resistance drops and the pedal moves easier (or so it feels) Car shifts fine but clutch doesn't really (dis)engage correctly. I know about the 1" rule, I have googled images, and read threads and adjusted to what I can, it is possible I missed or misread something thus I ask for your help. įIRST!!!!!! before you roll your eyes at me Issue: Clutch engagement is very narrow and very near the bottom. That's how I did it.A while ago I replaced my clutch cable and 3 times I spent some times trying to get it to adjust correctly but I have a feeling I'm missing something. If it passes the 'stall' test, move on to the modulator, then the VSV.Ī forum search should bring up some fairly in-depth procedures. If idle doesn't change, or changes very little, there's a couple different passages to clean. A test light is probably a good idea too.ĭo the EGR valve test first, no tools required. You'll need a 12v jumper wire and a clean (you'll be putting it in your mouth) length of hose. Let us know if you need the test procedure for it. There's actually 2, one for the EGR, the other for emissions that one goes to the vapor canistor. The VSV is mounted on the front of the intake manifold. Same when you remove the cap, it can go on either way, but only one is correct. Make note of which way it's installed, it makes a difference. The EGR modulator has a filter that can be cleaned. Manually depressing the diaphragm (with your fingers careful, it gets hot back there) should cause the engine to stall or almost stall. There are tests for the major components EGR, modulator and VSV. Don't let them sell you anything just yet, just post the codes. If you just want to find and fix the issue, head down to the local auto parts store and have them read/scan the codes (let's not get into the difference between the two terms just yet) and post them here and we can guide you, hopefully in less than 10 replies this time. Torque also lets you monitor, in real time, different functions of the engine and emissions system. Though that doesn't mean it's fixed, it just turns the light off until the next drive cycle completes. If you want to clear it, then buy the full version. Download Torque Lite and you can determine what code(s) the ECU is throwing. If you have an Android phone or tablet and would like to know what's going on, pick up something like this. They both serve the same function, to notify you of an issue. It was called one thing up to '95, the other from '96. The term CEL and SES are interchangeable in this context. There is no nag switch on an OBDII vehicle.
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